How to Alter a Pattern for Stretch Knit
When working with stretchy knits, it’s essential to understand how to alter a pattern to ensure the best fit and comfort. Stretch knits are popular for their ease of wear and ability to move with the body, but they can also be challenging to work with if the pattern is not adjusted accordingly. In this article, we will guide you through the process of altering a pattern for stretch knit fabric, helping you create garments that fit perfectly and flatter your body.
1. Understand the Stretch Factor
The first step in altering a pattern for stretch knit is to understand the stretch factor of the fabric. Stretch knits come in various stretch percentages, such as 50%, 60%, or even higher. It’s crucial to know the exact stretch percentage of your fabric, as this will affect how much you need to adjust the pattern.
2. Adjust the Width
Once you know the stretch percentage, you can start adjusting the width of the pattern. To do this, follow these steps:
a. Measure the original width of the pattern piece.
b. Multiply the width by the stretch percentage (e.g., if the fabric has a 60% stretch, multiply the width by 1.6).
c. The resulting number is the new width of the pattern piece.
3. Adjust the Length
Adjusting the length of a pattern for stretch knit is more complex than adjusting the width. You need to consider the body’s movement and the desired fit. Here’s how to do it:
a. Measure the original length of the pattern piece.
b. Multiply the length by the stretch percentage (e.g., if the fabric has a 60% stretch, multiply the length by 1.6).
c. Add any additional length needed for the garment’s desired fit. This can vary depending on the style and the individual’s body type.
d. The resulting number is the new length of the pattern piece.
4. Consider the Seams
When working with stretch knit fabric, it’s essential to consider the seams. Stretchy seams can be tricky to sew, so it’s best to use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. Additionally, you may need to adjust the seam allowances to ensure a smooth finish.
5. Test the Fit
After altering the pattern, it’s crucial to test the fit on a dress form or a willing model. This will help you identify any further adjustments needed to ensure the garment fits perfectly.
In conclusion, altering a pattern for stretch knit fabric requires understanding the fabric’s stretch factor, adjusting the width and length accordingly, considering the seams, and testing the fit. By following these steps, you’ll be able to create beautiful, comfortable garments that flatter your body.
