How to Alter Armscye: A Comprehensive Guide
In the world of fashion and garment construction, altering the armscye is a common task that can significantly improve the fit and comfort of a garment. The armscye is the curved area at the top of the sleeve where it joins the body. Whether you’re dealing with a too-tight or too-loose armscye, understanding how to alter it can make a world of difference. In this article, we’ll explore the steps and techniques needed to successfully alter armscye in a variety of garments.
1. Assess the Issue
Before diving into the alteration process, it’s essential to assess the problem. Is the armscye too tight, causing discomfort or restricted movement? Or is it too loose, resulting in an unflattering fit? Identifying the issue will help you determine the appropriate alteration technique.
2. Gather Your Materials
To alter the armscye, you’ll need a few essential materials:
– Sewing machine and thread
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Tailor’s chalk or fabric marking pen
– Pins
– Seam ripper (if necessary)
3. Remove the Sleeve
Begin by removing the sleeve from the garment. This will give you better access to the armscye area. If the sleeve is attached using a flat fell seam, you may need to use a seam ripper to remove it. Be sure to keep the original sleeve pattern pieces for reference.
4. Measure the Armscye
Take precise measurements of the armscye to determine the amount of alteration needed. Compare these measurements to the original pattern pieces to identify any discrepancies. Remember to measure the armscye at several points, including the shoulder, armhole depth, and curve.
5. Make the Necessary Adjustments
Based on your measurements and the problem identified in step 1, make the necessary adjustments to the armscye. Here are some common alteration techniques:
– To narrow the armscye, take in the excess fabric by stitching in the ditch along the seam allowances, then trim and press the seam open.
– To widen the armscye, cut a wedge from the sleeve cap and spread the edges apart, then rejoin the pieces and sew.
– To deepen the armscye, cut a straight line from the top of the armhole to the shoulder seam, then trim and press the seam open.
6. Test the Fit
After making the alterations, try on the garment to ensure the fit has improved. Make any further adjustments as needed.
7. Reattach the Sleeve
Once you’re satisfied with the armscye alterations, reattach the sleeve using the original method. Be sure to match the grainlines and align the seams correctly.
Conclusion
Altering the armscye is a valuable skill for any sewist or fashion enthusiast. By following these steps and techniques, you can achieve a better fit and improved comfort in your garments. With practice, you’ll become more confident in making these alterations and will be able to create custom clothing that truly fits your unique shape and style.
