How to Alter Bust Size in Patterns
Adjusting the bust size in patterns is a crucial skill for sewists, as it ensures that the garment fits perfectly around the chest area. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced seamstress, understanding how to alter bust size in patterns can greatly enhance your sewing projects. In this article, we will explore various methods to modify bust size in patterns, ensuring that your garments fit comfortably and flatter your body shape.
1. Analyze the Pattern
Before making any alterations, it’s essential to study the pattern thoroughly. Check the bust measurement on the pattern envelope or instructions and compare it to your own measurements. This will help you determine whether you need to add or subtract width from the bust area.
2. Choose the Right Method
There are several methods to alter bust size in patterns, and the appropriate method depends on the pattern style and your desired outcome. Here are some common techniques:
– Adding Width: If your bust measurement is larger than the pattern’s, you may need to add width. To do this, draw a line across the pattern’s bust area at the desired width increment. Then, redraw the bust line to follow the new width.
– Subtracting Width: If your bust measurement is smaller than the pattern’s, you’ll need to subtract width. Trace the pattern onto another piece of paper, and then redraw the bust line, narrowing it down to the appropriate width.
– Adding Length: If your bust is lower or higher than the pattern’s, you may need to add or subtract length. Extend the pattern’s bust line in the direction of the adjustment, and redraw the side seam to follow the new line.
– Adding Fullness: To add fullness, create a dart or pleat in the bust area. Draw a line across the bust area at the desired width increment, and then redraw the bust line to follow the new width. Create a dart or pleat by bringing the edges of the pattern together at the intersection of the new line and the side seam.
3. Test the Fit
After making the alterations, test the fit on your body or a fitting dummy. Ensure that the garment fits comfortably and that there are no gaps or bulges in the bust area. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before cutting the fabric.
4. Consider Additional Factors
When altering bust size in patterns, keep in mind other factors that may affect the fit, such as:
– Armhole Depth: Adjust the armhole depth to ensure a comfortable fit for your arms.
– Shoulder Width: If you’re adding width to the bust, consider adding width to the shoulders as well.
– Waist and Hip Fit: Make sure that the waist and hip areas are still fitting properly after making bust size alterations.
Conclusion
Altering bust size in patterns is a valuable skill that can help you create custom-fitted garments. By analyzing the pattern, choosing the right method, testing the fit, and considering additional factors, you can achieve a perfect fit for your body. With practice, you’ll become more confident in making these adjustments and will be able to create beautifully tailored garments that flatter your unique shape.
